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FITTING
OUT YOUR GALION 22
- By the way, Drilling
Stainless Steel!
- You will need to use Cobalt
Steel Drills if you are drilling through any significant thickness.
Ordinary HSS drills will burn up and blunt but the Cobalt Steel Drills
(available on eBay) will stand the heat. Use cutting oil or
thin liquid soap if nothing else is available to keep the tips cool
while drilling.
The following is copied from our new Forum.
I have included it here as I think that a set of plans of the boat adds value to completing the outfit so to speak.
I have a set of
3 Galion drawings.
Drawing 1: titled Accommodation Details 51"x28" (130cmx 71cm)shows side and plan elevations of the boat structure with 3 sectional views. Scale 1 1/2" to 1' (1:8)
Drawing 2: titled Galion 22 26"x 21.5" (66cm x 55cm) shows a side elevation with the sail plan and has hand written sail dimensions.
Scale 3/4" to 1' (1:16)
Drawing 3. Deck Layout
If
you would like copies at actual size. The cost is £30.00 including postage
within the UK.
Warning:
Check your lower rudder pivot
strap during winter fit out. George Jepps strap broke in half so it's worth
checking.
NAVIGATION LIGHTS
This is all you need  click here to see light.
Click here for lighting arrangements at night
If you have the tricolor light at the masthead using a bulb type Bay15D 12volt 25 watt http://www.ultraleds.co.uk/utri3-ultra-mast-colour-light-bay15d-1130v-p-1492.html(with staggered bayonet pins in the base), there is an LED bulb replacement part No.
UB20WW Tower 20 Wide Angle Leds Warm White Nav Light BaY15d
at www.ultraleds.co.uk . Please note there is also a wide selection of other types 12 volt Led bulbs which would suit other navigation light sizes and types at that website. ingress protection. We can supply these weatherproof rubber shrouds at £1.00 each including postage. Just cut the narrow end to suit the wire diameter. Use Vaseline or silicon grease to slide it if you want a tight fit. I have been using these for several years and they appear to be unaffected by ultraviolet rays from sunlight. Can be used to keep water out of your electrical deck fittings such as PL 259 VHF radio plugs etc...
Maximum internal diameter (unstreached) 22mm (7/8inch).
Weatherproof Rubber Shroud.
Wiring diagrams: Wiring priciples including charging circuits which you can easily adapt and use to wire your electrics. Click Here.
INTERNAL
ARRANGEMENTS
If you are in
the process of completely refitting or part refitting here are some views and
plans which might inspire some ideas.
These views
show the arrangements provided in the design of the boat.
 -
Here is a red colour
scheme
An internal view looking forward
LAYOUT PLANS
- Layout Plan 1
- With chart table and work surface, with stowage
under.
Layout Plan2
.
- Layout Plan3
- With heads Under Chart table
- Anchor Chain. Need a new one? Use 10 meters of 1/4"short link galvanised chain: Click here Then hank on 15 meters of 10mm nylon rope and that's it. (Boats longer than 22ft should choose larger diameter chain.)
- If you wish to have calibrated chain for use with
a windlass or chain winch please
Click here and then the 'Seascrew
Online Shop' and find anchor accessories.
-
Rigging Arrangements
-
- The Question was put recently as to what size wire the rigging is recommended.
-
- On a 22ft boat the size mostly used for shrouds and backstays is of 4mm dia.1x19 stainless steel wire but the forestay should be 5mm dia.1x19 to take the big genoa or if roller reefing is used should be plastic coated with nylon or pvc on 5mm 1x19 stainless steel wire.
- Here are some other points on rigging arrangements.
This is not intended to give definitive instructions on how to rig your boat but just a few points to notice.
- I put new wheels in the Main Sheet Traveller the other day. The main
sheet traveller is made by IYE their website is
http://www.proboat.co.uk and the site has a find a stockist search for your postcode on it or you can look at for more detailed info or you live in the USA at http://www.rigrite.com . The IT-K005 'Light K' traveller wheel bearings (pack of 6) - 19mm Ø (7/8")
were usually fitted to the Galion 22 they are made out of "Delrin" type of Nylon. My wheels were badly worn out of shape.
- If you have an inner forestay it
should be sheathed loosely with a plastic shroud cover. This will ease
the sheeting in of the foresail when tacking. Also the sheets should be
lashed to the foresail and not be attached by means of a shackle or similar
device. Tying it with nylon cord will allow the joint to slide easily
over the sheathed inner forestay. The shrouds should also have shroud
covers to prevent chafing.
- .There is a point to notice
about the shrouds. This
concerns the deck anchorage points on the gunwales which seem to be about 9
inches apart on each side. If an inner forestay is present, and
the anchorage points are as per the standard design (positioned about 9 inches
apart), the lower shrouds should be fitted to the aft most points
and the upper shrouds should be fitted to the foremost points.
This is to form the triangle between the inner forestay and the lower shrouds
to give stability to the lower part of the mast in all directions. The
backstay and outer forestay will provide the upper mast longitudinal stability
(in the fore and aft sense). The upper shrouds will then provide
the lateral stability (in the sideways sense). Thus by crossing over of
the upper and lower shrouds fore and aft like so, the mast will be well supported
in all directions.
All rigging should be taught and
firm but not so as to be brutal. The rigging should help the mast but
not force it. Just tighten enough so that the mast won't be able to move
around on it's own in a blow, or as described below.
- WARNING
- Two of our members have mentioned the fact
that each has heard of separate instances of mast failure on the Galion
22. One of them mentioned that the unfortunate skipper liked to
practice mast bending to get more speed.
- .
- I note that mast bend is a feature of racing to obtain more
sail efficiency. Whilst this practice may be beneficial on a
racing circuit under reasonable conditions one of the members noted that
the mast failed when the boat had pitched down off of a steep wave
during some lively weather conditions. Traveling quickly, coming
off of the top of a steep wave and moving rapidly down into the trough,
the boat was stopped abruptly at the bottom. The mast then snapped
at the cross trees.
- .
- Two things to watch here.
Firstly, I would not advise mast bend being used in adverse
conditions, or when cruising. Strains imposed by the above incidents on
an already bend stressed mast, might well be increased threefold or more
in a shock stress condition such as described above.
Secondly ensure that the rigging is Just
tight enough not to let the upper and lower mast move around.
And especially in a way which will allow the two halves to move independently
of one another. i.e. bend under high load. Ensure that all wire stays
and shrouds are taught but not stressing the mast into a bend so that in the
event of sudden shock all is well supported as evenly as possible without
stress. Even
distribution of loads will ensure that no sudden localized (sharp) bending
will take place, then the mast should not snap.
"HAVING
SAID THAT, NOTHING IS INDESTRUCTIBLE"
Other than the above I cannot comment further
but common sense and logic is needed.
Need a new mast and /or boom
You must of course shop around for the best price. A place I had good value from years ago was Z-Spars in Suffolk you could start with them: http://zsparsuk.com/index.html and see if they are still competitive.
Leaking Window Frames
For new windows try looking at this: www.wps.on.ca/plastic4boats/boatwindows.htm you may find it of interest.
- Leaking window frames? Have you? Well before you tear them all out try this. David Tocher said:
- Hi, The windows are leaking so I'd like to reseal
them. Has anyone attempted to remove the aluminium window surrounds? if
so any tips would be welcome.
So I said: Hi David, I found that using a thin Childs
paint brush and using Copydex. I painted it around the tiny
outside window sills formed by the aluminium frames. This stopped the
leaking dead in its tracks. I now have the driest boat this side of the
galaxy. Copydex is a water based emulsion which when set changes
into a clear Latex Rubber. A perfect and flexible seal. You can get
Copydex in any supermarket. Apart from sticking fabric gardeners can use
it to coat their plant labels to make them rainproof.
- .
-
Well since then I have found this method doesn't seem to last long enough. please accept my apologies SO now: I have found a better solution:
I used Thompson's leak fix and it's even better and more permanent. While it is wet the surplus can be cleaned off with white spirit leaving a neat virtually undetectable seal. Thompson's Leak Fix: Thompson's Leak Fix is a high performance clear sealant, which seals, bonds and repairs virtually any exterior surface, providing a long lasting, highly durable weatherproof repair. It's unique formula remains permanently flexible to prevent cracking and failing over time.
- But If you really want to take the windows out you have to carefully drill the heads off of the rivets. Years ago we used to use an adjustable depth restriction gauge to prevent the drill going right through. There again we were using windy drills working on a bonus. This was on aircraft. I think this is essential for professionals to use one of these to prevent disasters like scrapping the frames and repairing the fibreglass surround. Then you have to punch out the rivet with the right diameter punch. In turn that might require a hollow dolly to hold on the inside to take out the bounce and save cracking everything.
On the other hand you might be lucky enough to be able
to do it freehand with a hand drill and the rivets might just push out easily.
It's one of those jobs that can be either sweet or a downright brute of
a pig.
That's why I used "Leak Fix".
Paint Strippers
You may want give your boat a new coat of
paint this time out. You may wish to strip off the old ready for the new. Well
that's OK providing you don't use any old paint stripper.
- You must make sure that you use a paint
stripper that is safe to use with the GRP gel coat. Not all paint strippers
are safe to use on GRP boats.
- There are a number of safe to use stripping
compounds on the market and depending where you are will depend on the make
you get. The names of the GRP safe stripper in the United Kingdom are as
follows: (a) "Safer Stripper",
- (b) Removal 610, (c) "Dilunett".
There are some gel coat finishes that are not true manufacturers finishes
and some environmentally friendly paint strippers will attack them. That
is because they are really paints. These are called soft gelcoats.
Although chemically the same as hard gelcoats they react differently to
the more powerful paint strippers. The Removal 610 has a write up
on the PBO forum website and the person there says he has successfully
used it without any problems. The other two makes are also sold
for use with GRP gelcoats.
Hand Rails
Perhaps you would like
to easily make stainless steel handrails for your cabin top. The Galion 22 has
only wooden curved batons to hold on to. I made some handrails and used the 22mm tube
and fittings. You can screw them onto the wooden batons that are already
there. Use two ends and a centre support for each handrail. Bolt them on using stainless steel bolts to suit the diameter of
the holes provided. The curve on the cabin top batons is three inches
from a strait line so there is very little bending to do. They look great and
going forward is much safer now. If you would like to see the tubing and
modern looking stainless steel ends and center supports please visit Sea Screw
who will supply all your components at reasonable prices: http://www.marine-hardware.co.uk/acatalog/Sea_Screw_Catalogue_Handrails_38.html
I used a small angle grinder to cut it to length using a steel cutting disk.
The examples below are taken
from their website for your reference only.
Other Raw Materials
Aluminum & Stainless steel flat and round bar and
tube. A useful place to know for raw materials is Folkestone
Engineering Supplies who will supply you
over the phone on 01303 894611 with as little as 300 mm lengths
for just a few pounds including postage and packing. Their site
is on the net and can be found at:
http://www.metal2models.btinternet.co.uk/cataloguemenu.htm
. They also take debit and credit cards.
Another convenient site for all stocks of aluminium is http://www.thealuminiumshop.co.uk/ where they will deliver quickly.
SAILS
SAIL DIMENSION DATA
If you are happy with the dimensions
of your existing sails then these may be used as a pattern for making new
sails. If not you can add or subtract the dimensions measured from them to
order the new sails.
The best information to date shows that the
basic sail sizes are as follows:
Dimensions in feet and inches |
Mainsail |
Luff |
Foot |
Leech |
Area |
|
23'-3" |
9'-1" |
24'-9" |
|
Foresails |
|
|
|
|
No.1 |
17'-6" |
7'-6" |
14-'8" |
|
No.2 |
21'-9" |
10'-0" |
20'-0" |
|
No.3 |
22'-6" |
13'-6" |
21'-0" |
|
No.4 |
22'-6" |
16'-0" |
22'-6" |
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Warning: The
dimensions shown are the basic dimensions for a non furling forestay. If you
have headsail furling you will need to allow for the height of the drum and
the entry slot in the spar for the true dimensions.
Do not use the sketch in the Brochure on
page 3 to give to the sail makers, but the they might like to see them to compare
their final results.
To provide sail makers with the information to produce replacement
sails the data they require is shown in the diagram below.
This data was obtained from Hyde Sails in Southampton in the UK who
are located in the same boatyard that built the Galion 22.
Hyde Sails Ltd
Tel: 023 8040 8210
They will be more than happy to give you a
quote for replacement sails online by filling in a simple form on their website
shown above.
The sail data for the Galion 22 to which they
work takes the form of terms as follows: I
= 22.24 J = 8.66 P =
22.86 E = 8.98 and produces the
luff, leech & foot dimensions when implemented. To be on the safe side
the sail makers will also ask you to provide them with a few dimensions that you
can take from your boat in case of design changes which might have taken place
after production had started.
- All dimensions are in feet.
The sailmakers will allow for halyard splicing, sail stretch clearances, and
roller reefing dimensions.
- So they need to know what you have on your boat. Also check the
dimensions of your mast and spars in case of late modifications. Let the
sailmakers know of all these findings before allowing them to start work.
- .
- These are the dimensions given to the sailmakers at the original time
of production in the 1960s for the Galion 22:-
I
= Forestay height up the front of mast to forestay pin = 22.24 .
- J
= Distance
between the forestay pin at the stemhead and the front of mast = 8.66 .
-
- P
= Top of boom to bottom of mainsail halyard roller =
22.86.
-
N.B. There should be a
minimum of approximately 5 to 6 inches between top of sail and top of the
mainsail halyard roller
-
when the mainsail is fully hoisted to allow for the halyard splicing and stretch. "Discuss with the
sail-makers and take their
-
advice".
- .
- E
= Rear of mast to clew outer edge
= 8.98.
-
Please
check the length of your boom.
-
N.B.
There should a minimum of
approximately 3
inches
of free boom left after fully tensioning the mainsail foot to allow
-
for stretch.
- .
- Mainsail:
The
mainsail has a curve on the leech edge of 12 inches from a strait line from
the clew to the head of the sail. The apex or high point of the curve being
12 inches above the height of the cross trees when measured vertically up
the mast.
Don't forget the free space on the boom and
from the top of the mainsail to the top of the halyard roller on the masthead to
accommodate tensioning
and possible stretch over the years. Please
be sure to consult the sail-makers to confirm all data supplied here and follow
their advice. They know the characteristics of their own sailcloth and best
practices.
- Please
note: The webmaster and owners of this website offer the data and advice
supplied herein in good faith but hold out no claims as to it's
effectiveness and therefore cannot be held responsible for any failures or
expenses suffered as a result of it's use. However we have confidence that substantial
benefit is to be had by using the data as a first line of attack for
achieving the goals outlined in this website. The data here has been
researched at length and we consider it to be the best available to
us at the present time.
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